B. Squire & Son Upright with serial 36147

[mgriffico]

Hi,

I've recently acquired an upright paino and was trying to ascertain it's date of birth.

I think I've located it's serial number front top left, it's stamped (maybe cast) into the iron frame behind the strings, the numbers are spaced each inbetween the pins.

The only other markings i can find is under the lid "B. SQUIRE & SON LONDON." and underneath that GEO HAMES & SONS.

Can anyone offer any help?

Cheers

[Bill Kibby]

The published dates for Squire numbers don't apply to all Squire pianos, and although Hames was around in 1914 and 1928, I don't know when the firm was called Hames & Son. We also don't know if it was new when he sold it. I will have another look at numbers, but if you email some photos, or post them here, I may be able to tell you more. Meanwhile, follow the link below to try to find Datemarks.

[mgriffico]

Please find attached photos.

[mgriffico]

[mgriffico]

[Gill the Piano]

Bill, were some Squires made by Kemble? But i think they had a K prefix on the number...

[Bill Kibby]

Yes, I was trying to work out how early that happened. Some say that it was after Squires' factory was bombed in the war, but in fact, Kembles were already making them in the thirties. Certainly though, I would have expected the number to be preceded by a K. They also tend to be nearer keyboard level. The style of the case is difficult to date, similar ones were made from the twenties to the fifties, so any clues inside will be important.

[MarkGoodwinPianos]

It looks like a nice piano. Well done acquiring it

[mgriffico]

Thanks Mark,

It sounds great and cost me nothing too, apart from blood, sweat and tears moving it, I didn't realise how heavy they are.....there was just 2 of us moving it, but it's given me a good story to tell.

[Colin Nicholson]

Good luck with your piano!

Just a small tip if you are getting it tuned shortly. Where you see the bass strings steer sharply around the upper bridge pins at the top; if the piano has not been tuned for a while (and judging by their condition) - apply 'lightly' some oil on ALL those pins & a small area around the strings with a small brush. Dont use WD40, and dont use a spray oil.... just dab it on lightly with new oil (eg 3 in One). In this area, and with this design of stringing formation, on old pianos, they are prone to snap right on this bend. If you are not sure, ask your piano tuner. As an extra precaution, the coils wrapped around the tuning pins may also need some oil, but the photo doesn't reveal everything.

Bass strings are important as they are more expensive to replace than treble strings. Just be careful not to get any oil on the wrest plank (the wooden area behind the tuning pins). Some tuners (good ones!) will 'treat' the strings first prior to a tuning if they feel the strings are rusty/ corroded/ black in colour.

Hope that helps.

[vernon]

Blimey! Be carefulwith oil on the coils. A drop on the wrest pins and you will be able to tune it with your fingers(temporarily)
I'm sure the tuner will know, but ensure(diplomatically) that he drops the string first to clear any binding on the top bridge before tuning up.

[Johnkie]

I'm firmly with Vernon on this one ..... I have only ever used any kind of lubricant on sticking studs, and never on coils or wrestpins. I'm also quite alarmed that a suggestion of using oil be given as advice. Much safer to leave such ideas un-said and left to the skills of the professional who knows exactly what he's doing. From the photos, I don't see much of a problem with the angle of the bass string around the top bridge pin, and would just do exactly the same as Vernon .... initially letting the tension off to clear any possible sticking.

[Colin Nicholson]

Yeh Johnkie - I can read perfectly well thanks what Vernon had to say!!
I am talking about miniscule amounts, and its been proved beyond any reasonable doubt that a piano of this age, with old strings of at least 80 years old can 'save' the strings from breaking (specifically at this acute angle). I myself would never use oil on any decent instrument, and given that the extreme bass strings are possibly beyond any reasonable tone.... I also drop the pitch slightly to 'free up' rust etc before applying tension.... and they have broken before.

In fact, when I tuned a Schiedmayer grand a few years ago, I attempted to tune the bass - did as above, no oil.... and consecutively, 5 bass strings flew across the room! I stopped.... had a word with the customer, applied a trace of oil on the pins.... and after waiting a few mins, they were fine.

On very old instruments with rusty strings, I have never hesitated using this method, but only if really necessary.... and I can say that I have never broken a string in over 10 years...... have you?

[Johnkie]

I can't tell a lie Collin .... yes I have had the odd broken string throughout my 45 years in the trade, so perhaps your method might have saved them too I merely consider it a little dangerous passing on this kind of advice for non-professionals ... I've seen many cases where pianos have been ruined where a pianist has attempted to do it themselves. I'm not rubbishing your methods in the slightest, just expressing a different view and concurring with Vernon.