Arthur Allison Piano

[KaiparaGirl]

Hi,
I have just purchased an Arthur Allison upright piano.
Its serial number is imprinted on top of the right side board. when you lift up the lid you can see it. It's 38274. I have googled but cannot find this number sequence. I would like to know how old it is. Whether it is late 1800s which the style suggests or early 1900s. It has a fumigation sticker inside for when it was imported here to NZ in 1965. It is in excellent condition other than a few minor internal repairs and a tune. Any advise or links to information would be appreciated.
many thanks
Julie

[Bill Kibby]

The problem is that several members of the Allison family produced pianos with different numbers, and later pianos with the Allison name were also made by other firms, so "Allison" serial numbers on the internet are not usually right for your piano.

I can tell you that Arthur Allison & Co. piano #35795 is dated 3/5/07 on the keys, so if you want to search inside the piano for clues, have a look at
http://www.pianohistory.info/datemarks.html

I thought it looked like something around 1917, but the number suggests it might be nearer 1910. Any evidence will be there inside your piano, so we appreciate anything you can find out for us.

For general information on pianos of that era, see
http://www.pianohistory.info/edwardian.html

[KaiparaGirl]

Hi Bill,

Thank you for the information and links. I have pulled the piano apart to look for any number etc. I have read that Arthur Allison & Co changed name in 1911 to Allison & Allison so Im guessing mine would say Allison & Allison if it was built 1911+. I found the builders marking. See attached pix. It says Arthur Allison & Co, London. There is also numbers on the bottom two keys. Both the same numbers 418. Pix attached. And on the bottom frame on the bottom right corner it says 651 pix attached. Does any of that info help pin point the decade / year?
I wonder if I could find anything else out about the piano by tracing the NZ import agents E&F piano agency Ltd Auckland.
Looking through images of piano designs I thought it would be pre 1900s what with the style of the carved legs but the serial no doubt suggests otherwise.
many thanks
Julie

[KaiparaGirl]

Hi Bill,
That is amazing website so full of helpful tips. Further investigation following they the markings:

Quoting:
The TOP DOOR (top front panel) is usually held in place by two simple clips at the top corners, accessed by simply lifting the top. Then, the top door can be tilted forward and lifted out. The FALL (keyboard lid) is hinged to the HOLLOW, and this is usually just slotted in, so in theory it can be lifted out vertically with one hand on the fall. In practise, old pianos often warp, and if the hollow hasn’t been removed for years, it might be so tight that you need a carpenter’s help to get it back. Some hollows are much simpler, and held in place by a screw each end."

My hollow is very tight to get in place.


"Victorian keys tend to have neither of these bushings, they are usually UNBUSHED, and may rattle or stick. Somewhere between the two, some old pianos have keys that are SINGLE-BUSHED, in the front hole only. Double-bushed keys are probably after 1870, single-bushed keys are probably before 1920."

Mine are single bushed - only one hole

my keyboard frame (behind it) has another Allison marking and number. Allison is hand written in blue pen "allison" on the middle shelf it has another number 459443

All the removable panels and keyboard lid all have the marking 274

Oddest thing is the remains of a piece of paper under the keyboard lid. I cant make any sense of it though.

And there are 85 keys not 88

many thanks
Julie

[Bill Kibby]

The Allison family members seemed to have joined forces as "Allison Pianos Ltd." in 1911, but that does not mean the other names stopped immediately, so we can't assume that an "Arthur Allison" piano is before 1911. The name was still used in 1913.

274 on the removable parts confirms that 38274 is the correct number.

If you have a look at my victorian page,
http://www.pianohistory.info/victorian.html
it explains some of the types of leg, but your more modern ones are not the same shape or quality of workmanship.

The Edwardian page also explains that 85 notes is the most common arrangement in old British pianos, even in the 1960s. The number on the action might be useful if there was an action maker's name on there. It might be about 1908 if it was made by Schutze & Freund.

Key numbers are rarely helpful. I haven't found any dated frames with 651 on them.

[vernon]

Not strictly relevant but my Dad worked at Allisons during the first War and he suggested that they closed then due to some sort of lock out or strike.
This is just a vague memory of him talking as we cleaned out old pianos in the workshop tea break.
I bet Bill Kibby will know!

[Colin Nicholson]

In the mid 80s, I had an Allison.... good pianos.
I think you may have a hammer head missing (top treble), and next to it a hammer shank replacement. Quite common if the wood dries out and gets brittle. Ask your tuner to fit a humidifier tube inside, it may help to give the mechanism some long lost moisture, and keep the piano away from central heating at all costs.

Hope that helps

Colin

[KaiparaGirl]

Hi Colin,
Thanks for the tips. The tuner has already been and gone. He tuned it to pitch 421 not concert pitch because of its age and because it hadnt been tuned for quite a while. He repaired the damper and softened up some of the wool sponge things that hit the wires because they were echoing a bit. He spent quite some time doing it. I took a gamble with buying the piano without viewing trusting that the description given was honest and correct and she is in very good condition for her age. I believe she has been used for teaching as well going by the old music sheets and books that came with it. There are even two magazines dated 1931 of the Etude.
So my next lot of questions are how to clean her up. What is the best thing to clean and maintain the walnut veneer? and is there anything I can use on the ivory keys to remove the yellow tarnish on some of them? Im wondering if I could possibly learn how to restore her. Although Im getting back into playing after 20 years where I was up to grade 5 practical and grade 7 theory (was without a piano back then in the last few years of playing) Im surprised at what I remember and Ive even started teaching my grandson how to play and read music.
Julie

[Colin Nicholson]

To clean up the veneer/ remove years of grime etc., mix 50% linseed oil and 50% malt vinegar in a small jar with lid (it will separate), shake it like mad until it mixes together and looks like a mustard colour. Rub it into the veneer to remove dirt etc - use cotton wool. Depending on the condition of the French polish, if it is flat/ matt, it may not work - but if available, buy some "French Polish Revivor" .... rub it on in small areas with a cotton cloth, then wipe off. Finish with natural bees wax. If there are any scratches, either use brown or black colouring/ stain felt tip pens, or get some Kiwi brown boot polish. Go back through the stages if needed, and finish it off with bees wax.

Ivory whitening is quite specialised, and not recommended by a novice; sometimes in working with old ivory, the heads can come off - even by removing the keys! Also, getting the right "gradient" of 'off-white' is difficult to achieve.... so it's all or nothing. A general clean - use mild detergent and warm water, but always remove the keys first.

General guide only/ do not accept any liability or blame if anything goes wrong.....

1. Remove the key slip rail (just behind the black notes)
2. Carefully lift out each key, one at a time from left to right, and NUMBER it - starting with A1, then A#2, B3 and so on.... right up to A85. (Remove the mechanism if its easier and safe to do so)

** Lift the white keys out by pressing down at the back of the key, and hold by its key (wood) sides, DO NOT lift the keys by the lip at the front, or the ivory head plating may come off. If the lower key chasing hole is seized at the bottom on the centre rail pins/ keys difficult to remove, the mechanism must be removed first to allow the keys to be sharply pulled and wiggled out (like teeth). Only remove the keys if they have been eased previously with a carpenter's awl / key easing pliers. This is a periodic service job that should be carried out every 3 years.... separate to tuning.
If the keys are very stiff to remove...... all at your own risk! .... best to leave it.

TIP: Number each key on its side part 1 - 85. When you reach a break (keys change direction/ gap / gap between hammers), mark each end key with the number followed by // - good reference when putting back the keys. They must go back in the correct order and are all differently shaped.

3. Pre-clean all ivories as above.
4. Use graded emery paper (dry), from 400, 600, 800, 1200 and finish with 0000 wire wool.
5. Finish with either T-Cut or cutting polish / buff up.

WARNING! .... the odd ivory head may come loose and fall off while working on them, so just to tell you.
Recommended a pro technician takes them away and does this work in a workshop.

Colin

[KaiparaGirl]

Hi Colin,
Thanks so much for the advice of refinshing. What if there are cracks in some parts of the veneer and the odd dent? Do I need to strip it back completely and redo it? If so, whats the best practise and what is used? Ive googled and see some people talking about using a stripper, but the cracks and dents are not that bad but I would like to fix them
many thanks
Julie

[Colin Nicholson]

Hi Julie,
To strip down and re-polish this finish is difficult, even for a pro. What you see is not always real wood grain, much of it is painted on with a soft paint brush. You also need to be like a landscape artist to achieve the proper finished results..... however, have a go! .... nothing to lose.

Perhaps start on a small area first, and see how it goes. To repair dents/ deep scratches, try rubbing on (or melting on) a shellac (wax) stick .... here is a box of them, but can be ordered separately >>>
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Liberon-Filler- ... wax+sticks

If you thinking of stripping it down, perhaps start with one section first. To strip the whole piano, the piano cabinet needs to be completely dismantled into about 25 - 30 sections. If any stripper gets into the joins, its a nightmare to get out and re-polish. So, remove all hinges, mouldings, panels, trusses.... and ask a piano tech to remove the key bed (as it joins onto the cheeks). Choose either a Liberon garnet polish for a dark finish, or a button polish for a lighter/ pale finish, or mix the two together with tiny amount of wood powder stain (thin with meths if needed). Can also use wood filler & stain for dents, but it might look patchy. If the dent is in the middle of a section, either use a stick, or trace around the dent with tracing paper, then buy some oak veneer to glue in. (See my Bechstein refurb for photos / ideas). Not sure if you can still buy them, but a "cloud" shaped cutter would be ideal. However, there is a lot of skill needed in the prep work before you achieve the final finish.

As you add French polish, it also stains the wood darker each time.... so knowing in advance what results you want it a help. If you are doing the whole piano, put about 6 coats on/ sand between coats. Make sure you also use a razor sharp Stanley knife blade to scrape all the old polish off.... stripper rarely gets it all off, otherwise, old and new polish will react and bubble. You may also reveal a multitude of sins.... so beware!

If you choose to patch dents up, after French polishing, gently rub it with 0000 wire wool so it matches the 'off' finish to the rest of the piano, or your repair will look too new, and the sun glasses need to come out

For all repairs, try to choose a stick or stain slightly darker than the wood for best results.
Practise on an old stool or something first....that's what I did, or even a bit of old skirting board.

good luck!

Colin

[KaiparaGirl]

The majority of the external of the piano is in very good condition so I probably only need to patch up dents and scratches and the odd part thats slightly cracked or bubbled but as you suggest, it may end up looking worse where it will be patchy due to touch up and old not matching. And as for taking it all apart, I dont have the skills to be able to do that but I still would like to re-finish it.

I have managed to locate another Allison piano thats serial number 54190 so its mid 1930s. Probably 20 years younger than mine. Externally it is a mess but internally it may be better where I can probably swap things over like keys where some of mine have chips in them and are yellow stained and the other one has very good keys and I may be able to swap some felts over that my tuner tried to soften up but those notes still sound a little tinny. Perhaps since externally this one is a mess then I can test stripping and re polishing a bit of this other one first. It apparantly is french polished walnut like mine.

My biggest question is that its a bit of a worry if what I see is not a walnut french polished wood but painted on marks to look like it. How do I tell? If it is just a painted job would there still be a veneer at all?

I have managed to source what I think may be the best products to use including very find steel wool and a dark walnut liberon wax stick. Other items Ive picked out are:

1.
Briwax furniture cleaner:
Briwax Furniture Cleaner removes oils and waxes from timber and other surfaces, leaving the wood ready to be refinished. It also removes dirt, paint spots, and many other imperfections without destroying the patina of the timber.

2.
Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac 1/2pt Clear:
Bring out the natural beauty of wood grain like no other finish can, with Rust-Oleum Zinsser Bulls Eye® Shellac. This finish beautifies wood with a lustrous glow that won’t darken or yellow with age. The spray format is perfect for crafts and small projects.
Traditional finish & sealer

3.
Briwax Original Wax 400g English Walnut:Manufactured in the UK, Briwax Original is used by professional woodworkers and DIY perfectionists. It's the easiest and most traditional finish to apply directly to the wood. The mixture of beeswax and carnauba wax dries quickly to a hard surface and can be buffed up to a deep sheen. Can safely be used on the most valuable antiques, or on bare wood. Available in clear or a range of nine colours. Also cleans and protects wood, wood finishes, vinyl, steel and other surfaces. Interior use only.

English Walnut colour adds a very deep brown dye to the wood as you apply the wax. The simplest way to colour and protect timber.

All-Natural, non-toxic, easy to use
Classic finish for wood trim, paneling and furniture
Great protective sealer for crafts and household projects
Dries lightning fast - can be recoated in under 45 minutes
Does not darken or yellow with age
Easy clean up with alcohol or ammonia and water

Would this process work if I use the steel wool on the parts that need attention like where it is a little bubbled or cracked then use the filling wax to fix then use products over all of the piano from 1 - 3 ??

Thanks so much for all the advise. I dont want to touch it before I know what I am doing and that Im not going to end up with it looking worse not better!

Julie

[Colin Nicholson]

I cannot guarantee any of the products or methods will work from your list, as I don't use these brands, so it's simply trial and error. If you start with a small hidden area to work on first, e.g. behind a leg (doing all stages), you will hopefully get some good results. Blistering old French polish is very common when adding new products. I'm not easily convinced by reading text that looks like it has been copied from a bottle or advert containing slogans?

All the main cabinet parts will be veneered (for definite) with possibly a mixture of oak and walnut. Sweeping grain patterns done by brush are often shown where there are two pieces of veneer joined together. Look carefully at most of the panels, there may be a join in the middle. Solid wood parts are usually things like concertina music rests, panel trims & mouldings.

There will be many layers of old polish on.... about ten layers, and the brush strokes will be stained into the wood. When you re-polish it, you will never get exactly the same colour again.

TIP: a good French polisher will always make it look 10 times worse / ghastly to the eye, to achieve the perfect prep work and smooth raw veneer finish.... then the skilful part is in the finishing, knowing what it will look before you attempt the first stages. You can buy books on Amazon about French polishing.
Once you start to use polish, the wood will darken again by as much as 50%.
As I mentioned before, perhaps experiment on an old stool first before pianos!

Use good old fashioned purple METHS for cleaning, sanding between cleaning as meths can lift the grain.
After sanding, cleaning with a cloth, buy some TACK CLOTH to remove all tiny particles (available on .... you know who!), and make sure you can eat your dinner from every surface before polishing, and using good quality pony hair brushes and/or 100& cotton cloths.

French polish is difficult to work with (to a novice), and dries very quickly & becomes tacky, and there are other products to add, but beyond the scope of this "tutorial" .... you'll need to read up on it. However.... if you are not sure about it, try Danish Oil.... much easier to work with, thinner than FP but takes hours to dry between coats. Make sure the tin is shaken like mad to mix it together.... put some in a container and either brush it on or use a cloth.... put the cloth in a sealed container between coats. You also need to buy special brush cleaner, or just throw it out afterwards.


Hope it goes well.