Yamaha U1 key fronts yellow, soft and peeling

[benji101]

Hi I have a 1973 Yamaha U1 which i bought about ten years ago. The piano has been taken care of all the time I have had it and I bought it "fully refurbished. However, the fronts of the keys (the vertical white plastic bit - not the part you touch) have gone very yellow/pinky and are peeling. They have also warped so are not flat anymore and are soft so that you can scrape of a layer with your thumb nail. They look really horrid and spoil the piano! The key tops are fine and still perfectly white. I have only ever cleaned the piano with a dry soft cloth and never used any chemicals so I have no idea what is the cause of this!

Has anyone ever come across this before? What is the best thing to do?

Perhaps the early 70s is just too old for a U1 and I should get a newer one!?

[Barrie Heaton]

Its quite common on older Yamahas more so if one of the previous owners was a smoker as they used different plastics for the two components.

As they are peeling, the best option is to replace the full key top and front for a good match. Most tuners are happy to do that type of work. depending what part of the UK you are in you are looking at £500 + for this type of work as it requires re-regulating the piano as well if you opt for grained top to look like ivory this will be more.

Barrie

[benji101]

Gosh that's quite pricey! Is it worth doing to a yamaha of that age?

Look-a-like ivory might be quite nice but would this be correct for a yamaha U1? Would that increase its value to have faux ivory keys?

[benji101]

is the repair worth it at that price? Or am I better part exchanging for something else?

[Colin Nicholson]

The key fronts may be celluloid and were possibly cream coloured to start with.
Could be caused by this freak warm weather (lifting away/ glue drying out), and usually if they turn yellow, this is because the fall board lid (lid that covers the keys) has been closed most of the time - starvation of UV light on ivory/ celluloid will make them turn yellow. If the fallboard is not perfectly flat on the lock plate end (and bowed) - any light let in - sometimes the first & last few keys may still look perfect. This is the case I am faced with an old German upright - the celluloid key tops are badly shaded yellow in the middle 5 octaves or so. I might try to sand them down/ burnish.... but if they still look 'flat', I'll replace them with new plastic cream tops.

Ask your tuner for a quote - but as Barry says, the keys will need to be fully regulated, and the front key rail (where the lock is) may need to be removed and 1mm planed off to accommodate new fronts. New key coverings come with the fronts (all moulded into one ---------| shape) - or key tops separate. Not a DIY job though!

Colin

[Barrie Heaton]

Gosh that's quite pricey! Is it worth doing to a yamaha of that age?

Depends on the condition and how much you like the piano Part Ex for a new one is a good option However, .... sharp intake of breath from the retailer also with head shake when they see the fronts and pounds just come of the resell value.

Look-a-like ivory might be quite nice but would this be correct for a yamaha U1? Would that increase its value to have faux ivory keys?

Na.... wast of money for me its still plastic at the end of the day just look nice

Barrie

[Colin Nicholson]

I think about £500 isn't bad - maybe on the cheaper side of the estimate if anything.
I would charge about £350 (ish) just to replace the tops alone.
There's loads of prep work/ filling (if the wood grain lifts away)/ filing - and most plastic key top & front sets come as standard 'default' size - so the longer (Back) of the white keys are oversized width ways, and usually need filing down to match the profile of the key - then the edges burred over to smoothen them off. If you contacted Yamaha for key tops fittings - probably double that.


In some cases - I saw at college a set of old celluloid keys had to be routered off and using a jig - messy job!. Lots of fettling/ realigning all 52 keys/ ensuring gaps are even with sharps etc etc.... with fronts aswell.... may be more, and lots of hours regulating. If I took you through the whole process from start to finish, you would be sick as a pig!! .... if I were you - perhaps look at a good 2nd hand - retail about 2.5K - 3.5K for a decent U1 or U3.

[mdw]

Add to this dodgy bass strings and loop problems and I really do wonder why people buy these pianos. Lets face it key tops, bass string and loops ......not exactly cheap repairs any of them individually but to do the lot on a piano would cost a small fortune.

I cant think of another maker with such major regular problems on old models of their pianos. Although Kembles of all ages and their unglued bass bridges have been a regular 3-4 pianos a year thing for me for the last 3 years.

Not complaining though as it provides a nice steady stream of work

[Kaj]

Many Yamaha pianos had problems with key fronts and tops. The tops got a "dirty" look and it was impossible to clean them, so Yamaha changed quite many under warranty. I think they were experimenting with new key top materials and some of it was not good enough.
Kaj