DamppChaser Pads

[NewAge]

In the past when I've changed a set of pads, it's been on the car.
A weekend or two ago was different. I decided to change the pads (without soiling my hands) on the DamppChaser system on my upright piano. In fact I'd called my tuner/tech, and he said if the 'pad change' LED wasn't blinking, everything should be ok, and that it could wait until the next tuning session - which is not planned until end March when the central heating should be turned off.

The DamppChaser had been installed new about a year ago, and topped up regularly approx every 3-4 weeks using tap water to which was added a capful of the pad treatment additive.
I'd noticed a mineral build-up on the humidifier pads, so I decided to go ahead and change them. I assumed the pads were still wicking water reasonably well due to the fact that the red warning 'pad-change' LED had never illuminated.
Photo 1 shows the general arrangement, and photo 2 the mineral deposits observed on the pads prior to commencement.





With the pads removed, it was obvious that deposit build-up was greater than originally thought. Photos 3 & 4 show the humidifier heater wires and rod particularly affected.





I was surprised to see such deposits as I thought our tap water was not too hard - if the inside of the electric kettle is anything to go by, that's not too bad by comparison.
I assumed the deposits would come off easily after soaking the humidifier heater wires in a sodium bicarbonate solution. Photo 5



The hard mineral deposits didn't seem to dissolve though, so I had to think again. A well-worn scotch-bright pad turned out to be the answer.

After a flush and clean of the water container, re-installation with cleaned components and new pads was quite straight forward.
Photo 6



I can only assume that when the pad LED is illuminated on other similar systems that the components must be in quite an advanced clogged-up state, worse than I experienced.
Needless to say I didn't refill the container with tap water, and intend to use only distilled water (plus pad treatment) from now on.
The pads were genuine replacements purchased for just a few euros, and the action of changing them myself saved my tuner/tech a premature house call, and most important - gave me immediate peace of mind.

I'd be interested to know what tech/tuners experience has been when called to service similar systems. For example if highly contaminated, do you advise your clients to use distilled water only? Any other suggestions, or related anecdotes?

[Barrie Heaton]

When cleaning off the scaling don't damage the plastic bag that wraps the heater also don't let the scaling drop into the bucket all you will do is make the water even more contaminated.

Scaling builds up under the pad first even if you have very soft water, most of it is the crap that the water company put into the water. I never trust the LED light if the pad wicks just in one corner the LED will stay off

When I fit one I tend to ask to see their Kettle if I am not sure of the areas water.
Water quality can change in a small area, If you take the north west of England

Liverpool change 6 months Recommend distilled water
Just Down the road from Liverpool St Helenes they must use distilled water change 6 months.
Formby Recommend distilled water change 6 months.
Southport can get away with 1 year just about with tap water
Preston can get away with 1 year
Bolton change 6 months very odd water.
Manchester Recommend distilled water (depend which part )
Blackburn, Nelson, Cone, and Barnoldswick have been know to go 18 moths with tap water but I recommend at lest 1 a year as the pad tends to be slimly

The system defiantly works better if they are changed every 6 months the problem I find is when you fit a Lifer saver on some pianos they stay in-tune that well the clients switch to once a year and that's when the problems start with the pads.



Barrie,

[NewAge]

Barrie,
Thank you for your comments. Your 6 monthly check/change of pads advise was noted with interest.