Welmar Upright Piano 1951

[mikey]

I've been offered a Welmar Upright Piano free of charge from an elderly relative. It has only had one owner who didn't play it much and I know it hasn't been played, tuned or maintained for around 20 years. It will obviously need a few re-tunes to get back to pitch and the touch is very loose so I'm assuming some work will be required on the action although thankfully there doesn't seem to be much sideways play in the individual mechanisms. I know that without seeing/ trying the instrument no-one will be able to appraise or value it. However, the question I would like to answer is whether it is likely to be worth spending any money restoring an instrument of this make and age.

I currently play a Chappell Upright Piano circa 1890 which is a beautiful instrument but sadly the action has reached a stage where it needs significant overhaul and from research I've carried out discussions with restorers the cost of restorations would far outweigh the value of the instrument and may not even last that long.

Am I likely to be better off simply buying a more modern piano?

Although I've been playing piano for over 20 years I'm basically a novice when it comes to makes and models and so any advice would be very gratefully received.

Thanks

[Colin Nicholson]

My first impression is that "there is no such thing as free"!
However if your elderly relative simply wants to pass the piano on, then no harm is done.
Any piano that has sat for over two decades will have some problems with it. Personally, I would get someone to check out the wrest pins, strings and mechanism. Welmar is a reputable make of piano, and some typically had the top corners rounded off and made in light oak to match the period.

The piano will probably pitch-raise in two visits; the first to haul it up to concert pitch, the 2nd to stabilise the tuning and fine tune it. If the bass strings steer away at an acute angle from the tuning pins (over the top bridge pins), and if there are signs of rust on the string coils, ensure the tuner lubricates then before pitch raising. Your tuner will then be able to test the torque of the pins - this is done by a matter of 'feel' - and the main thing to know is that the wrest plank is sound. There may also be some re-centering to do as some parts may have seized up. Also get a few quotations for restoration of the mechanism, but a full restoration is not just that, it also includes key bushings, re-stringing, replacing the dampers and refurbishing the pedal mechanism - presumably the casework is in reasonable condition?

Obviously, if its the kind of Welmar I can envisage from the 50's - not a particularly attractive looking piano and out-dated, so don't expect any returns or major investments when selling the piano, unless it has the infamous German names. Certainly better than ANY 1890's joanna!

[mikey]

Thanks very much for this response. The piano is really quite plain looking so while it isn't the most beautiful it isn't in any way offensive. Thanks for your advice on what to check. The main thing that's worring me is the very loose touch but I've contacted my regular piano tuner so hopefully it will be possible to adjust / correct this.

[joe]

Get your tuner to tighten all the screws on action if keys are loose its a common problem on Welmar pianos caused by the angling of keys in relation to the keyframe.Bushings are quite often worn on the key chaser may need replaced but usually only on the one side and has most likely had heavy usage.If piano can be tuned to A440 and not too worn would be worth spending some money to get into good playing order they where generally the best U.K.manafactured instriment of that era.

[Colin Nicholson]

You may also find that if the keys are "loose to the touch" - it may need the key capstans adjusting, called "lost motion" or the set-off may be weak and hammers tripping too early; but yes, key bushings may be an issue. If any of the keys look collapsed/ tilted, or if there are uneven gaps between the keys (esp. around middle C area) - and if you move the key from side to side, if there is excessive play = key bushings. You can't see the front bushings, you have to lift the keys out to inspect them & if not too worn, the front 'bat' pins can be adjusted to remove unwanted play, but if the centres are worn - they have to be replaced. Another thing is the damper springs may be weak, and some lost their full tension - so depends on the dampers muting well or not. The average touch-weight of an upright key is around 48 grams (with sustain pedal down) Your tuner will no doubt check it over.

[vernon]

A competent technician will tell you in ten minutes what needs doing.
It may cost peanuts or a lot but Welmars of that era were jolly good.
Unless it's been well used you may get away with Colin's adjustment of the "lost motion."